Lathyrus

These hardy annuals and perennials may be climbing or bushy. The climbing vines grow up to 6 feet high and the dwarf bushy kinds, 1 to 2 feet high. They are mostly from southern and eastern Europe. These plants are clothed with medium- or blue-green, paired leaflets that grow up to 2 inches. The flowers grow up to 2 inches across, 1 to 4 per stem. They may be rose, red, maroon, pink, white, yellow or blue and some are bicolored; they are also fragrant. The Perennial or Everlasting Peas, L. Latifolius, are easily grown; they bear purplish-rose flowers in July and August; a variety, White Pearl, has large white flowers. The most popular kind of this group is L. odoratus, the Sweet Pea; this variety is a native of Sicily. In its wild form, the flowers of the Sweet Pea are usually purple, but other colors have been developed. Sweet Peas are classed in four main groups: the Ruffled varieties, which are great for the garden; the Multiflora varieties, which have many flowers on each stem; the Cuthbertson varieties, which are a heat-resistant, spring-flowering type; Early-flowering varieties, which are used for producing winter blooms in the greenhouse and for fall planting in mild climates. Sweet Peas that are grown for exhibition need plenty of attention. Judges look for straight stems, 15 to 18 inches long that aren't too thick. There should be 4 to 5 flowers on each stem, evenly arranged and not separated too far from each other. The size of each flower should be about 3� inches across the standard (upper petal). They should be fresh, have a good, clear color and no blemishes. The petals thickness should be enough so as not to have a flimsy appearance. Flowers for show should be cut the evening before and placed in containers filled with water and kept in a cool room overnight. Details on management are described below in potting.

Pot Cultivation

The Perennial or Everlasting Pea can be grown in regular soil that is cultivated well. It is a climbing plant, so it needs to be supported by a trellis or sticks. It should be planted in a sunny spot in the spring or fall. Sweet Peas are mainly cool weather plants that need an open, sunny position. The soil should be dug deeply or plowed and enriched with large amounts of thoroughly decayed organic matter, such as rotted manure or rich compost and an application of superphosphate. Finely ground limestone or a dressing of lime should be forked into the surface if the soil is acidic. This may all be done in the spring, but it is better if it's completed the preceding fall to allow the soil to be settled before the seeds sprout. Sweet Peas like rather well-packed, firm soil. Stakes or a fence of chicken wire, 5 to 6 feet high, should be set in the ground early on; just as soon as the plants sprout. The soil should never become dry. When the plants are half grown, a light application of 5-10-5 fertilizer should be soaked into the ground. The best way to feed Sweet Peas, however, is by placing a 3-inch layer of littery manure or other mulch along each row in late spring. Make sure to cut off the flowers before they go to seed to lengthen the flowering period. Sweet Peas grown for exhibition should be trained under the cordon system. This is allowing each vine to grow one stem only, no branching is allowed. This will result in plants with flower stems 15 to 18 inches long or longer, each carrying 4 or 5 large and perfect blooms. To accomplish this, pinch out all side or lateral shoots while they are small; as soon as they can be removed with the finger and thumb without hurting the main stem. The vines are tied to tall bamboo stakes and all tendrils are picked off. Good soil and a sunny, well drained spot are necessary. A trench, 2 feet wide and 18 inches deep, is made and if the subsoil is poor, 2 or 3 inches of good loam is added. If the under soil is good, fork it over to fluff up any packing that may have occurred from treading on it and add some coarse compost or other organic material. Fill back all good soil within 3 inches of the surface along with rotted manure, rich compost or other decayed organic material (2 parts soil, 1 part organic matter) and 3� pounds of superphosphate per each 100 sq. feet of surface. Fill in the rest of the space and 3 inches above ground level with good topsoil enriched with bone meal, which is added at a rate of a handful per 6 sq. feet of surface. A good amount of lime should be raked into the surface if the soil is acidic. A strong framework will be required to hold up cordon-trained Sweet Peas because high winds are liable to knock it over if it's weak. A strong post, 10 to 12 feet long, should be inserted 3 feet deep at the ends of each row. They should be strengthened by a guy wire that is attached to the tip and to a stake driven into the ground beyond the end of the row. If the row is long, it may be necessary to insert additional posts at various spots. When the posts are in position, stretch two wires from each. One should be 2 feet from the ground and the other, 5 feet. Stakes, the best being thick bamboo canes, should be tied 6 to 8 inches apart on these wires. After they've been planted, growth will be slow for a few weeks. When they start to grow actively and are at least 18 inches high, their side shoots, flower buds and tendrils must be pruned every 3 to 4 days. Flowers should not be permitted to grow until the plants are 4 to 5 feet high. Towards the end of May, a mulch of litter, compost or other suitable compost should be applied. Fresh manure shouldn't be used because it may damage the plants. Chemical fertilizers should also be used sparingly because a slight overdose may cause the flower buds to fall. Although Sweet Peas need good light, some scarlet and orange flowered varieties will maintain their brilliance better when they're shaded from strong sun with cheesecloth.

Propagation

The Perennial or Everlasting Peas may be started by sowing seeds individually in 3-inch pots filled with sandy, loamy soil in March or April. When the seedlings are well rooted, they are planted outside. Seeds of the Sweet Pea, which are going to be used for regular garden use, should be sown in the spring as soon as the soil is workable. Where winters aren't excessively severe, seeds may be sown in November, though they won't sprout until spring. As soon as November seeds are planted, cover them with 3 to 4 inches of salt-marsh hay or straw. Don't remove this until late winter or spring, when harsh, freezing weather is over. Fall sowing is recommended only for certain locales. In many areas, mild spells of weather during the winter may induce too early growth and the covering may cause decay. When sowing in the spring (not in the fall), it is advisable to chip the outer shells of the seeds of all varieties with a sharp pocket knife, except those with white or cream colored flowers. This consists of removing a small piece of the seed coat so moisture can enter easily. The chip should be taken from the side away from the "eye" of the seed. Seeds should be spaced 1 to 2 feet apart in a furrow that is 2 to 3 inches deep. Cover the seeds with a depth of soil equal to their own diameters. Sweet Peas that are grown for exhibition should be started in a cool greenhouse (temperature 40 to 50 degrees) or protected cold frame. Their soil should consist of 3 or 4 parts good garden soil (loam), 1 part peat moss and 1 part sharp sand. If the loam is heavy clay, more sand and peat will be needed. Everything should be sifted through a �-inch mesh and thoroughly mixed together. Flats or pots (5 inches) may be used to sow the seeds in. Fill these just about to the rim leaving enough room for �-inch of coarse sand to be spread on the surface. Water the soil thoroughly and leave it for an hour to allow the extra to drain away. Scatter 10 to 12 seeds in each pot and cover with the sand. When sowing in flats, make drills �-inch deep and 2� inches apart in the surface. Space the seeds an inch apart and cover them with sand. When they've sprouted, they must have plenty of light and ventilation. As soon as they've formed their first pair of true leaves, they are transplanted separately to 2-inch pots filled with the soil described above. Keep the newly potted plants in a spot of the greenhouse or frame where it is cool, airy and light. They shouldn't be exposed to freezing temperatures, nor should they be exposed to one over 50 degrees. In 4 to 5 weeks they'll be ready to repot in 4-inch pots. Use similar soil, but add a 6-inch potful of sheep manure and a 2-inch potful of superphosphate to each bushel of mixture and mix in completely. After the final potting, they may be placed in a cold frame, except where winters are very severe. During mild weather, the sash should be taken off. Don't prune any of the growth until the pots are filled with roots; at that time, most varieties may be pruned to two vines or stems to each plant, however, orange-pink and orange-scarlet varieties aren't as strong growers, so should only be pruned to one vine or stem to each plant. They should also be given supports of light brushwood. Depending on the location and after the plants have been hardened off by exposing them to the cold winds of spring, they should be planted from mid-March to mid-April. It is important to plant them as soon as the ground is workable and danger from severe frost has passed. Water them thoroughly a few hours before transplanting. When removing from the pots, turn the container upside down and tap sharply with a trowel. Dig a deep enough hole to spread the roots out after the old soil has been removed and fill in with fresh soil and pack it fairly firm. Seeds of Early flowering or Cuthbertson varieties may be sown late in August to produce flowers by Christmas on into late winter. Sow them directly where they are to grow and bloom. A solid bed (one that's not elevated), boxes (a foot wide and deep) or 8- to 10-inch pots may be used. These should contain rich, well-drained soil. The greenhouse shouldn't be shaded. During the autumn and winter, the night temperature should be 50 degrees with a 5- or 10-degree rise during the day. For greenhouse-grown Sweet Peas, it is smart to use new soil for each crop. Supports usually consist of thin wires nailed 8 inches apart to one end of the bench and stretched along the top of the soil, tightened and nailed to the opposite end of the bench. A framework of metal or wood, 6 feet high, is erected at each end of the bench. To the top of this, wires parallel to the rows of wires at the base, are stretched. Strings attached to the bottom wires at 8-inch intervals are stretched tightly and tied to the wire directly above. As the plants grow, they are twisted around these strings.